Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 425 Threads: 30
Reputation:
7
Location: Wellington, NZ
The thing I like about 80 year old vehicles is the total lack of electronics/software.
I don't trust modern cars at all with all their electronics and code! In 80 years time will anyone be wanting to restore old Toyota Priuses do you think? And if they want to, could they?
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 21 Threads: 1
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0
My own experience with the rebuild of my special was a disaster with the electronic Smiths speedo (looks period 50/60's) and a sensor from speedo cable drive in the end I gave up with this and fitted a gps sender at the side of the radiator, the rev counter a similar Smiths device is connected to coil and having checked with another instrument seems accurate. Hope this helps.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 629 Threads: 19
Reputation:
11
Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
The tacho on my pretend Ulster is low tech. It is a 1960’s Ford speedo with meccano gearing attached to the rear, powered by a 1961 Landrover series 2 speedo cable. Drive is taken off the bottom of the distributor. No electronics! Been working ok for the last 25 years except had to buy a new cable this year due to me not putting the old one back correctly after I removed the distributor.
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 698 Threads: 33
Reputation:
3
Location: Lot region FRANCE
A bit of a blow, the electrical noise when the engine is running upsets the Arduino and it all goes crazy. I don't want to festoon the engine with all sorts of gubbins, but has anyone got ideas on suppressing what I assume is RF interference from the coil/distributer and dynamo ?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 990 Threads: 6
Reputation:
12
Location: Scottish Borders
Maybe modern HT leads would help.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 784 Threads: 26
Reputation:
8
Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
You need to shield or short circuit the radio frequency "noise" generated by the Seven's system.
This "noise" is picked up by any wiring, even that on your chip, and it interferes with the signals carried by that wiring.
It may not work, but I would put the chip in a metal box which is electrically connected, preferably bolted to, the "earth" system of the car, and fit suitable capacitors across the wires carrying signals and power to the chip.
As small an opening in the box as possible, the capacitors need short wires, as close to the box as possible.
Capacitors short circuit AC frequencies, the suitability of the capacitor size depends on the frequencies you want to filter out.
You need to know the frequency of the signal going to the chip - the pulses you want to count, and don't use a capacitor that will filter those out.
Easy to try, if you can acquire a few capacitors.
If it looks like working, you could use shielded wiring to further improve the signal/noise ratio. TV aerial co-ax, for example.