Removing broken sump bolts

[GM6VXB]

Plleased to say got one of the local(ish) engineering firms to come out. Turns out the engineer lives not far away
from me so he was happy to come out for a look.
One bolt came out after MIG welding a nut to it. Thread cleaned and ready for studs to be fitted.
The second broken bolt near to the flywheel end was more of a problem (as feared). It was cross threaded and in
getting it out the thread was albut destroyed.
Lots of searching in boxes and the engineer found a 1/4 inch BSW heliicoil. Driilled, taped and fitted so now a good
thread to work with.
Got some studding and Nyloc nuts arriving today so will be fitting these, and hopefully will get the sump back on
providing I do not freeze to the garage floor (+3C and rain/sleet just now).

Ohh, and I will be fitting a gasket rather than the smear of silicon sealer that was used before. Must admit, plenty
of 'bodges' found on the car so far which makes me wonder if the advertised 'drives welll' part of the sales advert
was true. We will see !.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Martin, GM6VXB

[AustinWood]

Austin Sevens were liberally bodged through many years of life but through it all continued to drive well!
They are resilient machines of great character.

[Rick F]

I would recommend you using one of the new-style silicone gaskets rather than a paper one.

[Reckless Rat]

If you are using a silicone gasket, the mating surfaces should be dry. No grease, no gasket compount. Clean the joint surfaces with acetone prior to assembly. Torque the joint down and then again after 24hrs to allow for spread. After that, it's fit & forget.

[GM6VXB]

Yes, gone for the silicon gasket.
Interestingly it says: USE A THIN SMEAR OF HYLOMAR OR SILICONE SEALER WHEN ASSEMBLING. 

Personally from experience with silicon gaskets albut in an RF and electronic environment, I will
initially try with only a light smear of high temperature silicon grease.

Martin.