Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 4 Threads: 1
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Reading so many differing opinions on fitting an electronic ignition to my 1933 Box Saloon.
Its got a Bosch distributer.
Although it takes an age to start, once started and warmed up it runs great.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,421 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
It's probably taking ages to start because the carburettor is not full of fuel and you have to wait until the fuel pump has
primed it sufficiently. Have you tried manually priming the carb by using the lever on the fuel pump before starting?
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The priming pump is something I need tho look at as I thought the same as you. There doesn't seem to be any feeling of priming so I suspect the diaphram may be split??
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 989 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
If the camshaft stops with the pump operating lever on its operating cam then the priming lever won't do anything.
Jim
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Ade, As a test remove the two screws from the top of the float chamber and fill it with fuel re assemble and see if you still have a starting problem. If you start and run ok I would like the others suspect the fuel pump and priming.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 989 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
The fuel pump has a lever inside the engine that is operated by an extra cam on the camshaft. The lever moves the pump diaphragm to push fuel through the pump.
The priming lever on the outside also operates on the diaphragm but if the engine stops so that the pump cam is on the lever then the diaphragm is pushed up and the priming lever can't operate and does nothing. In this state the lever will be quite slack.
Turning the engine a turn or so on the starting handle will release the internal lever and the priming lever will operate and you can feel it doing more work.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 778 Threads: 33
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Location: Beautiful Northumberland
Car type: 1933 RP Saloon (aka Mildred)
Ade
Quick thought. You say there is no feel of priming. Well mine is also 33 box and it probably takes 10 pumps where all you feel is the air you are sucking ahead of the fuel. There is no real feel of resistance. It is only after that when you feel the resistance and squirt of fuel coming through the pump to carb. I usually give it another 5 pumps after I hear and feel the first squirt.
It might therefore be that you simply aren't priming it enough rather than the diaphragm being damaged?
Oh and I fitted an electronic ignition in place of Bosch and it has made a difference, although perhaps not as much as if I had replaced a worn original.
Andy
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
The original RP pump had no hand primer. With original cr it was easier, quicker and cleaner to hand crank!
Is stale fuel the problem?
Many substitute pumps have wrong arms . If the engine driven pump stroke is very short may take time to prime on starter. Can test by pumping into a container.
I run a 1960s car with the same pump as often fitted to Sevens. Possibly due imperfect seals the carb feed drains after a week or two. An inline filter increases the volume needed to top up. Nevertheless pumps after 3 or 4 hand strokes.