making horn push (SWB steering wheel) from scratch

[Mike Costigan]

The two levers on the 1933-34 application are different; note the position of the flat part of the lever in relation to the centre.

[Tony Press]

Jon,

I thought you were enquiring about the early steering wheel assembly with the nickel horn button- not the later plastic horn button. which as shown has a different set of levers.

[JonE]

The two levers on the 1933-34 application are different; note the position of the flat part of the lever in relation to the centre.

I see you are right! I was just presuming these were bent, but they couldn't line up square unless they were angled different, I can now see.

Tony, presumably with the later set, it IS the same lower lever as the earlier combination? 

Here is Ian's diagram if it helps anyone else.
If anyone has a duff/broken/scrap lever but with that upper thread on, please make contact...    

[Ian Williams]

There is one big failing in the design as drawn Jon: once assembled you will never get the column back apart as you have soldered onto the top of fixed tube preventing the column passing over it when assembling and dissembling, you may not get the steering wheel over it either.

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If you use the bottom nut/fixed tube from a Mk1 Ruby steering column these have a clamp to hold the horn tube which passes down the centre of the column, the top of one of these could be adapted as drawn and would allow assembly. You may find if you have an earlier 29 type column which is longer than the Mk1 Ruby type that the horn tube is too short, if so a longer one can be obtained from a Big 7 column which could be cut down to fit.

[Tony Press]

Tony, presumably with the later set, it IS the same lower lever as the earlier combination? 

Almost but not quite the same as can be seen !

[JonE]

Almost but not quite the same as can be seen !

Ha. yes. end curves detail? didn't they have anything better to do?!

Ian - Ian M did say that it would NEED to be soft solder but I take all your points. As soon as it strays into selecting different tubes from different models, it is good to have here for completeness but it strays into unsustainability for most of the Austin 7 population? 

As an aside I've just bought a utilitary unimog-type combination switch for indicators, horn and dip functions. If that is visually unintrusive, it might well be tested for Seven use!

[Tony Press]

Ha. yes. end curves detail? didn't they have anything better to do?!

One lever is fixed to the top of its boss, the other fixed to the bottom