Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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I know there have been some good things written about whether to have easily-releasable wires from an additional connector block, or just have long wires so the panel can be flipped out easily.
Any ardent supporters of either, or good housekeeping tips in this department?
I realise ammeters probably want to have undisturbed wiring runs, but thinking particularly of PLC switch terminals, which I don't particularly like fiddling with once in!
Making up loom components so have no loom constraints. (Ones in the past always seem too short)
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,421 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Either way, it's good to have an easily accessible battery isolator before you start. A lot of the wires are live and will short out on the dashboard given half a chance.
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 697 Threads: 33
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Location: Lot region FRANCE
I would go for cables which allow you to flop the panel out just enough to get to the terminal screws, speedo cable etc, not so long as hang down like a festoon below the dash. Also don't bind the cables up close to the panel itself thus restricting access to the terminal itself. I know its not original, but if running 6 volt system, include an earth wire from the battery to all lighting units.
Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 367 Threads: 14
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Location: Western Brittany (France)
Hello Jon, RR. I NEVER work on any car's electricity without first disconnecting the ground side of the battery.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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OK, will go for panel flop! And yes, will sort an isolator. I'm going to do all the lighting wiring separately after I have the operational bits in place neatly.
Renaud - presumably if there is a non-Chinese isolator, you are happy not to remove the ground terminal?
