Back axle pinion shaft conundrum

[Urgent Austin]

That's what I always loved about this forum, quick and informed advice! So, they're all like that - at least I can keep the carrier. My distance piece is also 5/8". I've measured the ball bearings and they are also correct. The pinion shaft is 22 3/16" total length. So...unless I have a torque tube that is longer than it should be (is that possible?), it is all correct, and I should probably just tighten everything down and stop worrying. Fair conclusion?

Many thanks!

Geoffrey

[Bob Culver]

Hardly dare mention but presumably the a/c races are assembeled with the outer rings abutting?
Were stepped rings an Austin special or were most a/c races so finished to help guard against wrong assembly?

[Urgent Austin]

You're quite right to ask - all suggestions welcome. I put the two faces marked 'thrust' together, so the inner races have to be squeezed together to meet. Correct?

[Tony Press]

As far as I know only Austins used the narrow outer ring Angular Contact bearings.

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That seems correct- if the wrong way around the outer rings would be separated.

[Zetomagneto]

Hi Stuart, is there any problem with replacing the ball bearing next to the pinion with a roller bearing.
The ball bearing in that location always seemed to me to be a candidate for improvement.
Rgds Gene

[Stuart Giles]

Hi Stuart, is there any problem with replacing the ball bearing next to the pinion with a roller bearing.
The ball bearing in that location always seemed to me to be a candidate for improvement.
Rgds Gene

When I rebuild axles that have the ball race, I always fit the roller race instead as it's far more rigid than a deep groove ball race. You will need the get or make a roller race distance piece as it will be wider by the difference in the two bearings width. If you are using a 'ball race' style CW & P set you'll also need to make or get made a 1 1/8"  diameter 1" bore spacer as the roller race has bigger bore than the ball race. I make this a light press fit in the bearing but there's no reason why it couldn't be Loctited onto the pinion. The other thing I do is, as per the factory roller race rear axles, I drill the banjo or 'D' axle case to take a 1/4" diameter peg that prevents the outer track of the roller race walking down towards the crownwheel. This does look totally unnecessary to me but it's only 15 minutes work.

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The pinion shaft is 22 3/16" total length. So...unless I have a torque tube that is longer than it should be (is that possible?), it is all correct, and I should probably just tighten everything down and stop worrying. Fair conclusion?

Many thanks!

Geoffrey

I wouldn't want tighten up the pinion flange unless I was confident that it was going up the taper OK. Haven't got to my stock of CW & Ps yet to measure the OA length, but a quick measure of an accessable axle here shows that the overall protusion of the pinion from the big ball end of the torque tube in an assembled axle is 1 5/16"

One other thing, have you checked the width of the pinion bearing at the top of the torque tube. From memory, this is an LJ 7/8 ball race.

[Bob Culver]

It is true the pinion ball races did not last forever and were later dropped. Roller races also facilitate mesh checking. But bearing ratings (reputable brands!) are much increased since the 1930s and a ball race less expensive.  Few cars are going to do another 100,000. For those with lathes and adept at use of fitting a precision concentric sleeve finished within  .0002 is not difficult, but it is for many.

[dickie65]

Do a check measurement of the pinion end six bolt flange to match against the crownwheel position to see if the pinion insertion is correct.
you can also seperate the axle half and insert the pinion to have a visual idea of insertion meshing.