Torque for axle banjo and torque tube bolts

[Mike Costigan]

That reminds me of the factory recommendation for tightening the cylinder head studs on a Roesch Talbot; from memory it went something like: 'apply as much effort as possible with a six foot bar' !

[Dennis Nicholas]

Update on proceedings.

You can all now sleep well at night (I think).

Stainless replaced one at a time with HT.

I got some new HT bolts rated R and have tightened them to 18ftlb. (still can't find a table showing yield and proof loads for R.)  Bolts are new not plated and I coated with copper slip.  I will be checking for tightness once car in use.

using % accuracy for a given method of tightening a bolt (found in a table by one manufacturer) 
Feel or operator judgement +/- 35%  = 11.7 to 24.3 ftlb
Torque wrench                   +/- 25%  = 13.5 to 22.5 ftlb (LASER tools 5 - 25Nm torque wrench)

Can anyone with an original untouched axle look and see/confirm R grade HT bolts were originally used.....there is an R on the head.

Dennis

[Dennis Nicholas]

Just thought I would see if I can add a photo to the forum and at the same time show the use of one of my small Austin spanners.  The wife assisting!

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Reference the front end of the torque tube ball joint and castellated adjusting ring.  I have assumed that the two bolts are put in from the front so the head is trapped against the casing and the nut tightens onto the ring.  How is the nut locked to prevent it turning and slackening off?  I had two tab washers but suspect they were too small as the turned over flat bit hardly spanned the opening if the castellation and anyway the washer just turned out of place as I tightened down the nut.  In the end I peened one edge of the flat into the opening to stop the washer turning, added a plain washer, tightened and flattened the rest of the tab onto the top of the castellation.  I have also added a second nut and locked it against the first one.
So what was the original method of locking the nut??