Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 2 Threads: 1
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Location: Ledbury uk
Car type: A7 1933
I have just obtained a rolling chassis that has a twin leaf spring front end. I’m not too sure wether it’s a good idea to retain it . I’m planning on building a hill climb special and will need to source engine and gearbox and steering components. Any advice would be appreciated.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 741 Threads: 8
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Location: N W Kent
Sounds like you have a Bowdenex front end. A lot of these had a wider track than the standard front end. these used two side by side radius arm anchor points bolted to the front crossmember in place of the rivetted on single factory item.
Cars I've driven with them have seemed to work OK. The Bowdenex telescopic shock absorber bracket that is often fitted with these really heavy though as it's made of steel plate. I expect that the VSCC would look down their noses at a car with a Bowdenex front end, if you're thinking of entering any of the events they organise.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,011 Threads: 168
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Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
When I bought my Nippy it had a twin-leaf ifs, and it's handling was brilliant. In the interests of authenticity I reverted back to the standard Sports set-up, and that was definitely inferior.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 226 Threads: 9
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Location: Edinburgh/Lothians
Car type: Seven Special
Also many I have seen still have a one piece track control arm which conflicts with the changing track of the now independent front suspension giving bump steer. Though this seems to have been acceptable when originally designed and sold to the public. Similar to the syatem used on many Speedex specials as well.
Paul N-M
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 172 Threads: 1
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Location: Richmond, Texas, USA
I had a special so equipped, and of course the LRM, Roy Lee's Goodacre trophy winner, did too.
I think it was he that discovered the main problem with the one-piece track rod. It used ball-joints at each end, mounted underneath the steering and so tending to twist the arms, which being held in place only by the nuts on the end, could turn in the stub-axles. This resulted in more and more toe-in with detriment to straight-line speed! The cure was to drill and tap under the stub-axle and insert a pointed grubscrew to deter the rotation.
Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 2 Threads: 1
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Location: Ledbury uk
Car type: A7 1933
05-02-2020, 06:25 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-02-2020, 06:27 PM by Rogco.)
Many thanks for your reply. If it is a Bowdenex conversion then I feel inclined to retain it. I am in need of an engine gearbox to fit if you could point me in the right direction. Rogco.
Many thanks for your reply.
Many thanks for your reply.
Many thanks for your reply