Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 683 Threads: 17
Reputation:
6
Location: The far North East of England
Car type: 1934 Austin 7 AVH Van (in bits & incomplete!), 1936 Morris 8 Series I Tourer
Hi Howard,
I'm sure you're correct in saying that 180amp is probably the largest size of armoured cable available. If The Seven Workshop recommend it then it must be fine - I wouldn't want to disagree as I'm no electrical expert. My suggestion was based on the cable spec recommended for use on my 1936 Morris 8 Tourer which is also 6v. I was intending using the same 300amp spec on my 1934 Austin 7 AVH Van - that's if I ever get round to sourcing the missing parts and to begin reassembling it.
Cheers,
Jeff.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,121 Threads: 111
Reputation:
22
Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Jeff
I’m no electrician either. It may be that the Morris starter is higher powered and therefore draws more current.
Good luck with the build!
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
Reputation:
7
Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
28-11-2019, 06:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 28-11-2019, 06:43 PM by Colin Wilks.)
Having rewired our narrow boat a few years ago I am sure this conundrum is all about voltage drop (if we have any sort of technical issue my wife now states brightly "It's probably voltage drop!". Current and cable run are critical with a low voltage system. Bigger section cable will enable a less than pristine battery to do the business. Bear in mind that it is the volume of copper between A and B that matters, so cutting back a fat cable to make it fit the terminals is not wasted effort, but routing it may be problematic.
Thinking further, the cable runs on a Seven are so short, I doubt voltage drop really matters. I would just take the current draw for your starter and multiply by 1.5 to specify the battery cable.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 741 Threads: 8
Reputation:
11
Location: N W Kent
29-11-2019, 01:26 AM
(This post was last modified: 29-11-2019, 02:02 AM by Stuart Giles.)
Ultimately, IMO WRT to cable size, it depends on which end of the telescope you're looking through, if you set up your car from the perspective of the CCA figure of a typical large 6V battery - like the MGB one which is the biggest 6V battery I've managed to squeeze into a non-special A7 floorpan -the CCA (Cold Cranking Amperage) figure on one of these is about 600A. So, if you designed your setup from the cable requirement for 600A, because that is the maximum current, that would require 70mm sq cable (i.e.) 17mm+ Outer Diameter. Counsel of perfection on this would say we need to minimise voltage drop, so why use 70 sq mm. 95 sq mm would be the thing to have for 600A load - the resulting cable would be the best part of an inch diameter of course. The reality is that the battery's 600A CCA figure is deliverable for moments at best; the MGB 65 ampere Hour battery in this example won't deliver that 600A (3600W) for long, Certainly not long enough to overheat a reasonable sized battery cable.
I have set up several 6V cars with 25 sq mm cable -the exact same stuff that has been good for extended use @ 180A+ on one of my welders without any undue heating- in an A7 they've all cranked the motor at a reasonable (6V) speed and started the car OK; if the battery happens to be right at the rear of the car, it may be worth going up to 35 sq mm cable, to be sure.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 189 Threads: 8
Reputation:
1
Location: East Yorkshire
Car type: Ruby sports trial special .
Try putting clamp on ampmeter on starter
And see what it is pulling in amps use next
Size cable job done!
My problem I ask questions that other people don't like?
Like have you got that for an investment or for fun?