Ignition light staying on after starting

[Matt_Harnden]

Hi everyone,

I’m sure this question has been asked before, but what should I look to do to prevent the ignition light from staying on after starting the car.

It’s always done this but I guess it is supposed to go out after starting.

I have a 1938 Opal APE.

Thanks,

Matt

[Bob Culver]

It is a common problem but need far more info for a sensible answer. What does the ammeter do? Is the light constant brightness? What bulb is used? Seems like a basic wiring error. John Cornforths circuit diagram on Dorset site will likely assist you to fathom both wiring and the workings.
There are also datailed description sof the dynamo and cutout operation available on Club sites.
The lamp is wired between the battery(thru ign sw) and the dynamo output and responds to the difference in volts. As the dyn output rises the lamp dims and when the cutout closes the batt and dyn are conncectd directly so the lamp goes out. If it is wired direct to earth it simply comes on with the ignition.

[Steve kay]

Is it just me....current Ruby and previous Ulsteriod whose dash and instruments certanly did not come from Longbridge Competition Dept the procedure is fire it up with switch pointing to "summer" with ignition light on. When running with some revs turn switch clockwise to "winter" light goes off ammeter indicates charge. Next two positions are of course sidelights then headlights. I put it on the charge every now and again as instinct or memory suggests. In the dim and distant past every autumn I'd crank up the third brush in the hope of having enough charge to keep lights for at least the first four or five hours of night driving. That roughly 10 amps of charge would frighten me if in the daylight I'd put it on to charge and forgotten to turn back for an hour, fearing boiling the battery. In these wonderful days of LED cards there is little to worry about. I have driven or passengered in cars of a similar age where charging is also selective, including a 20/25 Rolls where the klaxon needed so much juice that it quickly had to be switched to charge before sounding the horn. Things modern drivers don't understand, sight distances, minimal braking, making electrical adjustments before sounding the horn....