14-11-2018, 07:15 PM
Thanks to all replies, yes I plan to use cotton braided wire with heat shrink and completely rewire.
I will check out the suggested websites.
I will check out the suggested websites.
The following warnings occurred: | ||||||||||||
Warning [2] Undefined variable $search_thread - Line: 60 - File: showthread.php(1617) : eval()'d code PHP 8.1.31 (Linux)
|
HELP WITH WIRING!
|
14-11-2018, 07:15 PM
Thanks to all replies, yes I plan to use cotton braided wire with heat shrink and completely rewire.
I will check out the suggested websites.
14-11-2018, 09:37 PM
Hi Paul
I was loaned a standard wiring loom for a Ruby to see it it would fit my special which is based on a Ruby. There was no way it was going to fit without a lot of modification so I gave up on that idea. The main problem was as the steering wheel is raked further back the dashboard is further back so the wiring to the instruments would not reach.
14-11-2018, 10:38 PM
(14-11-2018, 07:15 PM)Paul Nott Wrote: Thanks to all replies, yes I plan to use cotton braided wire with heat shrink and completely rewire. Bear in mind that battery / starter cable bought for a 12 volt system is not suitable for a 6 volt system – the cable should to be to the size specification shown below: Battery / Starter Cable – 315/0.40, 40mm², 13mm OD, 300A AES stock it in cotton braid either black or red – their Ref. No. 020203 @ £8.97p per metre: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p...#flash-msg The Green Spark Plug Company stock it in PVC either black or red – their Ref. No. 0-982-10 @ £11.81p per metre: http://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-meter-durit...82-10.html
15-11-2018, 12:49 AM
If doing a full rewire, worth considering
1. A relay for the headlights, unless you are using LEDs 2. Indicators, LEDs need suitable flasher unit 3. A battery isolation switch
16-11-2018, 08:54 PM
(14-11-2018, 07:11 PM)ob Culver Wrote: The wiring diagrams are fine if all is original but usually end up drawing for yourself a circuit diagram. John Cornforths Ruby diagram on Dorset site does this for you. May need adapting slightly to suit earlier based. Hi Bob Thanks for the wiring advise on my Seven. You asked a question, Why the Seven when I was originally thinking of a more modern classic? As a child of the mid 60's and starting my working life in the early 80's around cars I always had a thing for Triumph Gt6's. However I have a friend mad about Sevens, he has an Ulster which he trials at VSCC events and he got me hooked after a VSCC event at Prescott hill climb. The Seven has many advantages, its simple to maintain, small enough to work on in my small garage, my 11 yr old son is hooked and I love the whole history thing. I grew up in Birmingham, my Father worked at the 'Austin' for a while so perhaps it's in my blood. I really would like to research the car and try to find the supplier of the body, once in a moveable position I will post and ask any members if they recognise. It has a London registration but I've been told London registration details were last during the war? All the best Paul
18-11-2018, 09:55 AM
On roads for which they were intended, esp amongst others, Sevens are satisfying. Can be better suited than bulky moderns. But pale distinctly when mixing it with moderns in their element.
Unless they have some historical appreciation it is hard to see how persons can derive much from old cars. Underbonnet wiring looks reasonable with exposed parallel wires retained by ebonite or similar saddles and metal C saddles as original. may not suit trials where likley to get embedded with mud. I was called upon to assist wih a neighbours Mini years ago. It had been entirely rewired with white trurip! Don’t forget to check the steering arm, rear axle nuts, dynamo max output, rear spring leaves.... |
« Next Oldest | Next Newest »
|