Clutch movement on my new 31 saloon

[Mk1mickey]

Thanks all for the replies, I will try the washer method, as I want to use the car for a week, then the engine and box will come out for an inspection.

1 last question however, when doing the bolts back up for the washer trick, is there a torque setting as I can't seem to find one in the Austin seven Manual?

[Nick Turley]

Good Evening all,

I picked up my new 1931 box saloon 4 days ago!

Being a 21 year old, and having learnt to drive in a modern day Corsa, but have owned 50s and 80s cars, the 7 is quite a difference  espicially the clutch. 

The clutch in my car seems to be incredibly bad. It has the 3 speed box out of a 32, and i have now got used to double declutching down. However I cannot cleanly select 1st or reverse without crunching. 

I cannot believe this is correct? 

Further the movement on the pedal is about 1/2 an inch, and doesn't fully disengage. 

Is there any adjustment you can do with the box in the car? Or will this be an engine and box out and inspection?

Kind regards,

Mike

Hi Mike
Many Austin seven's have really bad clutches, sadly some of the information in some of the "books" is in my view not the best.
I always set up the clutches as per the advice given by the late John Dalby. The results have always been super and long lived. This is important because taking the engine out more than once to get it right is painful to say the least.
If you send me your email address I will send you this information and give you further help if you need it.

[Parazine]

Hi Mike,

The concept of "Tightening torque" is a post WW2 idea. Before the war, mechanics were supposed to "know" the feel of a bolt and how to tighten it, hence no advice was given by the manufacturer.
That said, even if the 1/4" BSF bolts are R grade, the maximum torque is low, around 9 ft-lbs, which you may need a smaller than average torque wrench to measure.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/library/torque.htm

You can google torque values for R grade BSF and Whitworth bolts as above, beware though, some modern fastenings (head and manifold studs) have been made from some poor quality steel in the past and cannot withstand much torque

Good luck!

[Duncan Grimmond]

When I first started my first Austin 7 I could not disengage the clutch to select first gear without a crunch which encouraged the car to move forward, a dragging clutch. As Nick has said, there is a solution available which involves a complete rebuild of the clutch and replacement of all parts. The John Dalby and the Woodrow methods work. Also, speak to an expert on the 'phone, soothing and encouraging words are very helpful!
While you're at it, make sure that the clutch pedal is assembled correctly and its position on the actuating shaft gives the correct amount of travel.
The relatively tiny amount of travel makes for a "savage" action but you'll get used to it.

[JonE]

Could someone elucidate on the Dalby method please? Where is it written down for posterity, out of interest?