More teething troubles with Ruby…..

[Reckless Rat]

Like this one:

[Denis Sweeney]

Yes thanks guys I do have the correct parts and my current set up replicates RR’s photo with the nut right at the end of the thread, which I assumed is there to keep the compression spring in place.
What I have not done is move the nut towards the wing nut to increase the compression to keep the wing nut in place, should I have done this?? Would this have prevented the wing nut jumping out?
Don’t think I’ll manage to get out there today but hope to be able to have a good look tomorrow.

[Reckless Rat]

Spot on, Denis. Run the nut up the thread until the spring is good and tight.

[AustinWood]

Surely the wing nut is used to adjust the brakes. Tightening it will bring the brakes on sooner. Tighten it too much and the car won't go!
Our brakes need readjusting. I shall slacken the wing nut until the cross-shaft returns to its at-rest position and make sure the cross-shaft is completely free in its bearings. They do tend to tighten up.
Then tighten adjust the cables the remove unnecessary slack. Once that is done, and the brakes balanced, tighten the wing nut until there is little or no free play at the pedal.
The wing nut is then used to take up lost movement at the pedal as the brakes wear.

[David Stepney]

Surely the wing nut is used to adjust the brakes. Tightening it will bring the brakes on sooner. Tighten it too much and the car won't go!
Our brakes need readjusting. I shall slacken the wing nut until the cross-shaft returns to its at-rest position and make sure the cross-shaft is completely free in its bearings. They do tend to tighten up.
Then tighten adjust the cables the remove unnecessary slack. Once that is done, and the brakes balanced, tighten the wing nut until there is little or no free play at the pedal.
The wing nut is then used to take up lost movement at the pedal as the brakes wear.

I concur with Jim's comments above, but would add that:-
1. Everything on the front axle should be in reasonably good order, otherwise the front cable geometry can go awry. (e.g. brakes coming on when going backwards or on a full lock, or, indeed both!)
2. The brakes should only be adjusted to ensure that all the wheels are perfectly free to spin.

I usually like between 1/2 and 3/4 in play at the pedal (to ensure that the stop lamp switch operates correctly) and 4 notches on the handbrake fully on. My car's handbook recommends that the handbrake should be capable of being pulled on 1 notch without starting to apply the brakes and I adopt this.

[Bob Culver]

As the car has been converted to Girling all the cables must remain just sufficently slack as to not part operate any hub levers.

[Denis Sweeney]

So managed to get into the garage this morning and had a good look around and found as follows:
With the handbrake fully on the wing nut on the brake rod extended out beyond the body of the clevis at the lever that rotates the cross tube and as it did it had a natural movement to one side. Whilst this had not previously caused a problem it was possible for the wing nut the catch on the clevis and stick there when the handbrake lever was released, hence I believe the locking up of all four wheels.
I have now set the wing nut so that when the handbrake is fully applied, which is 4 clicks on the ratchet or 5 if I give it some wellie, the wing nut stays within the limits of the clevis pin.
I have also tightened the single nut so that it compresses the spring as noted by RR, my only concern with this is that I think with vibration, even with the compressed spring it will loosen back, however as the wing nut is now “captive” hope this will be ok.
Checked adjustment of brakes and free movement of the cross shaft and all seems ok
Weather had turned grim so have not taken Ruby to test the brakes yet or the timing…….
Cheers

[Dennis Nicholas]

Put a second nut on and lock against spring nut.

Dennis