Rear axle oil change.

[Nick Turley]

I would recommend that you go for a permanent repair.
Its a little bit of work (about 2.00 hrs) but you will feel better about it afterwards and friendships will be retained.
Basically you remove the hub assembly, remove the spring shackle pin undo the six offending side bolts pull the case open.
You must of course replace the gasket (as it has previously leaked I would be tempted to put a little silicone on both the diff side and the tube side)
Reverse the process, tightening the case bolts (new tab washers needed) carefully and evenly to exactly 19 ft lb.
Leave overnight before filling with oil.
As you are new to austin sevens it may be worth mentioning if you go for this adventure that the half shaft nut needs to be very very tight.
If you are unsure about that - perhaps you could persuade a chum from your club who is well versed in such things to give a hand and share knowledge.

[redruthman07@gmail.com]

OK!!
Nick you are unquestionably right and it is what I am sure I will do eventually. Thank you very much for the talk through of the job.

However I am going to try Stumpi’s magic paste first. The reason being, since I bought the little b......(just at the start of lockdown) I have already had the engine out to sort out the clutch. This, because it did not want to engage gear without the noise scareing the neighbours children! Something which I have since learnt is part of a RN’s loveable character.

So having started to put some local miles under the wheels and really enjoying the experience, I want to go further afield in the next few weeks.

If it doesn’t work some of Colins pads will be on the shopping list to take me through to doing a “proper job”.

Thank you again, Brian.

[Bob Culver]

There has been very considerabe previous discussion on oils and levels and the consensus was very firmly that a low oil level in the diff is advisable. The original pattern seals are inclined to leak.
Unless you are particularly competent mechanically i would not disturb a back axle for a mere oil leak. The thickness of the gasket influences the  mesh and bearing preload or clearance. The previous gasket may not match any replacement.(The previous may be home made of random thickness). Establishing the difference and correcting or adjusting for can get involved with the diff fully assembled

[JonE]

would it not be worth just running with less oil in and seeing if that improved matters i.e. 350ml or so?

[squeak]

a coke can is a useful measure, it's 375mm if I remember.

[Dave Mann]

I sometimes have oil leakage from the either side of the diff case and find that the setscrews want nipping up. I thought the general opinion was not to fill the diff up to the filler plug to reduce the risk of oil leakage down the shaft to the brakes, whilst this isn't critical on the banjo axles with a vent on the diff case it is on the D type axles with the vent plug on the torque tube.

[redruthman07@gmail.com]

I did wonder whether I should try and unbend the tab washers to see if the set screws need tightening Dave, so will give that a go. On the evidence I think it will be only two of them.

As for the oil level......I refilled with the recommended 7/8 pint original spec which prompted my question. I noticed yesterday however that there are two little holes in the bottom of the axle near the wheels and one of these is leaking oil. So it would seem less quantity is needed, as you all have been advising. Thank you.

I don’t drink coke unfortunately squeak.......what do I do now!!

Brian.

[Bob Culver]

The holes are a mod, frowned upon but saviour of many expensive brake linings! (I run a Minx car and the axle vent is a mere unprotected hole but on the top side?) . The brakes worth checking. May be able to intercept any leaks.

[squeak]

Brian take the RN out for a run to the off license, I believe they stock 300ml and 330ml cans .

[JonE]

I undid all the setscrews and cleaned up and replaced new lock washers - it felt a good thing to do and did improve a drip I had once.