Clutch release bearing

[Merlin0161]

Hi all.
So, I have a '37 Ruby that makes an awful whining noise every time the clutch is pressed in. My guess would be the release bearing is faulty. I have put a few drops of oil down the little pipe that goes to it but it's made no difference. In fact it's getting worse every time I drive it.
How easy is it to change? Has anyone any tips about removal etc? If I'm going to be stuck in isolation for 14 days I might as well make use of my time.
Thanks.
Carl.

[Robert Leigh]

On a '37 (MkII) Ruby it is relatively straightforward to access the race, because the gearbox can be taken out through the floor. Adjust  the seats right back, remove the matting/carpet on the front floor, and then the 1/4" countersunk set screws holding the removable floor panels. Once the panels are removed take the pad off the clutch pedal, undo the front universal joint from the flange on the gearbox output, and undo the nuts on the bell housing studs. If all goes well you can now pull the gearbox backwards until it drops off the clutch splines, and lift it out; the gearlever is useful for this if you still have it installed. People sometimes remove the gearlever to allow removal of the cover, but this should not be needed if you are lucky. With the gearbox on the bench the thrust race is accessible, and is removed by taking off the circlip in the channel of the big washer at the front of the return spring. Most of it is very obvious once you can see what you are doing.
Robert Leigh

[Merlin0161]

Perfect.
Thanks for the info Robert.
Kindest regards, 
Carl

[Chris KC]

Not much to add to Robert's outstanding explanation - except perhaps that a scushhhh / hiss noise is pretty normal (and oddly comforting). Whining though doesn't sound right. Jamie (Seven Workshop) has brand spanking new clutch thrust races for 4-speed and I have just fitted one to my new CR box - piece of cake. Just make sure it's the right way round, as they are less easy to remove than to fit.

[Charles Levien]

On a '37 (MkII) Ruby it is relatively straightforward to access the race, because the gearbox can be taken out through the floor. Adjust  the seats right back, remove the matting/carpet on the front floor, and then the 1/4" countersunk set screws holding the removable floor panels. Once the panels are removed take the pad off the clutch pedal, undo the front universal joint from the flange on the gearbox output, and undo the nuts on the bell housing studs. If all goes well you can now pull the gearbox backwards until it drops off the clutch splines, and lift it out; the gearlever is useful for this if you still have it installed. People sometimes remove the gearlever to allow removal of the cover, but this should not be needed if you are lucky. With the gearbox on the bench the thrust race is accessible, and is removed by taking off the circlip in the channel of the big washer at the front of the return spring. Most of it is very obvious once you can see what you are doing.
Robert Leigh

And don’t forget that little bracket underneath — a couple of 1/4 bolts to the cross member. I struggled quite getting clearance until I discovered that

[Robert Leigh]

One more thing I forgot to mention: you need to get underneath and disconnect the speedo cable. I hope you see this in time; I ruined a cable when I forgot this!
Robert Leigh