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magic welding rods
#1
Has anyone tried these 'welding rods'? Do they have a place in our life?

https://www.newerby.co.uk/products/solut...7395800149
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#2
Never used them but they look very good and so simple to use, as said like to hear from some one who as used them
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#3
Looks like soldering, not welding.
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#4
Seems too good to be true, so it probably isn't.
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#5
Hi All

I think these are similar to Lumiweld and other aluminium brazing rods.  I’ve used these quite a lot and they are good but slightly more difficult to use than is suggested.  I don’t have oxy acetylene so make do with a small oxy MAPP gas set.  I find that you need to use them like solder, tin each face first and then join.

Excellent for thin aluminium lapped joints more complex for thick butt or fillet joints.

They are not cheap unless you get them on offer.  

For any brass, steel joints I think silver solder is superior especially if you get fluxed rods.

Cheers

Howard
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#6
No idea what these are like, but the melting point at 480 c is a bit higher than the Lumiweld style rods @ 380 c. Some caution would need to be used on Aluminium as its melting point isn't massively higher than the 480 c figure. Having an AC/DC Tig welder, I only use Lumiweld type rods for repairing die castings that have a Zinc content. Doesn't look like the magic rods would be any good for that as the job would probably melt before the rod.
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#7
Metal hot glue ?
My problem I ask questions that other people don't like?
Like have you got that for an investment or for fun?
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#8
Hi folks,
I have used Alumiweld.
I broke the carb mounting lug from my Type 65 inlet manifold many years ago.
I re-cast the broken off part by first tinning the fracture then made a crude mould with a bit of 6mm stainless plate and a steel dam on an optimus camping stove.
The repair has lasted for years. ( the repaired area is harder than the original alloy )
I have also put a plate over a cut off nosepeice with the same stuff.
I have also had a go on a scrap crankcase. ( It had a case of Conroditus )
I pre heated the crankcase on the kitchen range then used a propane torch to heat the repair.
I now have a propane Tar Boiling ring for pre heating large parts, it is best to not use direct flame for the repair.
So it can be used with care.

This type of product has been around since the early 1970's if not before.
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#9
To attain and hold 480 deg C would take a lot more heating than the adv suggests.
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#10
(24-01-2020, 02:08 AM)Bob Culver Wrote: To attain and hold 480 deg C would take a lot more heating than the adv suggests.

Yes, And at the same time you'd have to avoid the edges of the job reaching 660 degrees, at which point Aluminium melts.
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