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Oil filler neck
#11
Not what I wanted to read as I settle down for the evening.... but thanks, Simon. To be honest I think I'm in the clear. There was very little debris, ie. virtually nothing, and the studs seemed fine, so I'll put it back together tomorrow.

That being said I have now just incurred the wrath of the old car gods, who will conspire against be overnight to make it a complete can of worms by then...
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#12
Blowback may be due to over filling.   The level in the top tank always settles down a lot lower than I think it is.

About half an inch or so above the core.

So I always over fill, and lose a bit first time out.

Is your timing right?

Brake binding?

Hoses good?   Old ones can collapse internally.

Over 35 degrees I would have the bonnet off or open, anyway.

Can the hot air escape from the engine compartment?
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#13
Side water inlets can become hideously blocked with crud leading to very serious overheating, on a car I did not know it would be one of the first things I would check to ensure its clear.
Black Art Enthusiast
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#14
Flexible curtain rod, the stuff Beloved uses for hanging lace curtains and a battery drill are very handy things for cleaning out passages in blocks, heads, manifolds etc. You could use a bit of old bicycle brake cable outer coiled cable if you stripped the plastic off. I ground the end smooth on a grindstone so it had no sharp buts to hook on anything going into corners

Take a bit of time to inveigle (now there's a big sticky word like marmalade) the springy coiled wire around obstacles inside blocks etc, but is well worth it - NOT for radiator tanks as the rotating whipping of the flexible rod will bend the ends of the tubes closed.

Use in combination with a compressor & air gun and you will be quite surprised what is lurking in a seemingly clean block

Aye
Greig
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