Checking the tightness of halfshafts

[John Mason]

Hi all, I have just read an article in my club magazine on the importance of checking  the tightness of halfshafts to prevent failure. I have had my Ruby since 1997 and have never touched the halfshafts. I  am weary of touching anything that has given good service for years and would rather leave well alone.
What would other forum members do?

John Mason

[bob46320]

If you can't tighten them any more, they are tight enough, but slackness can creep in - at your peril

[Andy Bennett]

I'd had my car for 2 years when reversing up a slight hill was met with a crack and loss of drive.
It later proved to be the woodruff key shearing off. inspection of the other side revealed all was present and correct by way of pins etc but the nut was little more than nipped up.
A new woodruff key and an air hammer to tighten both sides and 9 years on and no further issues.

Surely 20 years of trouble free motoring suggests that they were/are probably still tight and it is a job that doesn't need any sleep lost over, or do they loosen over time under normal driving and should we all be doing a check every few thousand miles?

Andy B

[Ian Williams]

You never know what a previous owner has done, if the hubs are fretting the drive is being taken by the key and WILL eventually fail, personally I would be checking to see if the nuts tighten at all, if the don't all well.

[Bob Culver]

If nothing is wrong checking involves no dismantling. With an appropriate wrench of 12 inches and moderate pressure unlikely to break the thread. The main problem is aligning the split pin. Unlike other cars the wheel cannot come off. I always ran without the split pin and regularly checked. If nothing wrong the nut does not loosen. I suspect many reduce tension to align split pin as it is tedious to fit the nut or washer. The main problem you may cause is an obstinate hub if and when it does need to be dismantled!

[Colin Wilks]

If nothing is wrong checking involves no dismantling. With an appropriate wrench of 12 inches and moderate pressure unlikely to break the thread. The main problem is aligning the split pin. Unlike other cars the wheel cannot come off. I always ran without the split pin and regularly checked. If nothing wrong the nut does not loosen. I suspect many reduce tension to align split pin as it is tedious to fit the nut or washer. The main problem you may cause is an obstinate hub if and when it does need to be dismantled!

Any reason you wouldn't shave the back of the nut so that the split pin aligns with the nut tightened up fully?

[Bob Culver]

Fitting a nut to just the right thickness flat and square requires some skill. The repeat trial and error tightening of the nut may lead to the end failing from fatigue! If the hub is not perfect and stable and the nut can be later tightened the whole process has to be repeated. A second drilling at right angles assists.
Something is very wrong if any  key fails, but I suspect the original were hard. I have seen many axles very hard hopelessly hammered and this could have only been done by a hard key. It seems soft ones preferable!
 

(On my everyday 1960s car I have had disputes over the years about adj of taper rollers. Producing the Maintenance manual only ruffles "expert" inspectors and makes them determined to find some other fail. So with two drillings in the axle, for every wof I tighten one increment and undo after. )

[dickie65]

I have drilled a second hole in halfshaft to fit split pin,
File V across the end of the shaft in line with existing hole,
Fit nut Tighten up then drill new hole as close to 90 Deg from old hole. File a second V groove for new hole.
V groove will help with alignment of nut to holes in shaft.