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+--- Thread: Engine rebuild (/showthread.php?tid=5023)
Engine rebuild - philip burrow - 02-10-2020
Can anyone help a first time A/7 rebuilder ? silly question ,but which way round does the dished oil thrower go next to the rear bearing ?? many thanks.
RE: Engine rebuild - Ian Williams - 03-10-2020
Facing outwards Philip, I hope that makes sense.
RE: Engine rebuild - Tony Press - 03-10-2020
(02-10-2020, 10:18 PM)philip burrow Wrote: Can anyone help a first time A/7 rebuilder ? silly question ,but which way round does the dished oil thrower go next to the rear bearing ?? many thanks.
Think about it- if the inner of the dished thrower is clamped to the rotating inner ring of the bearing then the outer diameter of the dished thrower must face away from the stationary outer ring.
RE: Engine rebuild - Zetomagneto - 03-10-2020
Throw it away and use a lip seal conversion, only about £20 from one our cherished suppliers.
RE: Engine rebuild - Bob Culver - 03-10-2020
A great virtue of Sevens and older cars is that they are not loaded with time limited components as moderns. (seals, plastic bits, rubber bushes, hydraulic cups, electronics etc.) Some lip seals survive forever, many go very hard. The slinger works very adequately unless wading.it is imperative the flywheel does not fully compress the wavy slinger and abut the bearing.
RE: Engine rebuild - Terrytuned - 03-10-2020
Use the oil thrower make sure it is nipped by the flywheel and fit a Viton lip seal (red/brown colour) as these don't go hard over time as the Nitrile seals (black) seem to. I keep the thrower as the seals work better if they don't have lots of oil thrown at them. Terry.
RE: Engine rebuild - philip burrow - 03-10-2020
Thanks for all the advice. Great help !!
RE: Engine rebuild - David Stepney - 03-10-2020
For what little weight my opinion has, I have kept the rear crank oil retention arrangements on my own engine to the way that Austin's did it, with just the oil thrower. Having just overhauled the engine with new pistons and paid scrupulous attention to making sure that the gaskets have been fitted using a good proprietary silicon sealer, the engine now uses virtually no oil and the clutch pit has remained (comparatively) dry.
I suspect that, for touring engines, the original arrangements work just fine. Tuned competition engines are probably another matter altogether.