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+--- Thread: replacing oil screen gauze (/showthread.php?tid=3592)
replacing oil screen gauze - JonE - 29-11-2019
I've just found out that the brass oil gauze burns quite nicely with a blowtorch. But conversely, the metal frame to be soldered to is large enough to need quite a bit of heat.
What is the best way of repairing a little hole.... and/or replacing an entire new gauze i.e. is there an adhesive which is better than using solder?
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Colin Swinbourne - 29-11-2019
Have you tried using a copper soldering iron (the type you heat with a blowtorch) they are easier to control where the heat goes when trying to solder such different materials.
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Steve Jones - 29-11-2019
To replace the gauze, first tin the frame with soft solder at the points where you want to solder the gauze. You'll then find you need a very small amount of heat from your torch to solder the gauze to the frame at those points. I could take a photo of one I did a couple of weeks ago but it's now hidden inside an engine.
Steve
PS: When you say 'blowtorch' trust you mean small soldering torch and not something made for plumbing work!
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - JonE - 29-11-2019
thanks all - I've been using a kitchen flambe torch, but may see if I can find a copper soldering iron...
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Chris KC - 29-11-2019
I put a new gauze (from Jamie) in mine back in the summer using one of those little Dremel soldering torches.
I admit I did not find it easy at all and succeeded by sheer perseverance. Make sure it is as clean as can be before starting is the best advice I can offer. Take heart from the fact that it doesn't do a lot.
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Tony Betts - 29-11-2019
hi jonE,
this is why the suppliers, supply the frame seperate from the gause.
its a crapy job, a little time consuming. that you dont get paid for.
and when soldering, you are usually standing over a thin streaming line of chemical smoke.
i usuad to do around 5 at a time to put on the stall during the summer, but the flux stains and rusts the steel. so they look used after a week. and nobady wants to pay.
i done one last week ONLY to complete a £1,500 order, and it reminded me how horrible this job is. UNLESS you are doing it for yourself.
tony
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Colin Wilks - 29-11-2019
I wanted to solder the core plugs top and bottom on some semi-girling king pins and was recommended this stuff, which worked like a charm.
Bakers No.3 Soldering Fluid
https://g.co/kgs/gmbSuX
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - JonE - 29-11-2019
It now just makes me wonder whether there is some sort of modern heat-resistant adhesive that could do a similar job, 90 years on...
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Ian Williams - 29-11-2019
I took one engine apart where a past owner had glued the gauze on with Silicone, I would not recommend that though it was a horrible mess! Soldering is not hard once you get the technique right, everything must be spotless, wire wool and a stainless brush are good for cleaning, heat the frame rather than the gauze, use a good flux but wash it off and neutralise the acid otherwise the steel will rust as Tony has found out!
RE: replacing oil screen gauze - Tony Betts - 30-11-2019
Hi Ian,
It's amazing what people try.
As you know silicon is either brave or stupid?
Apart from the mess, you don't want to much loose in the oil.
I know many people rap the brass round the steel plate loose, and trap it with the 10 bolts, which sounds fine. But I can only imagine people making a mess of the gauze drilling 10 holes in loose gauze?
Tony.