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+--- Thread: U joint woes (/showthread.php?tid=1413)
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U joint woes - Erich - 03-07-2018
Hi All,
Preparatory to sending the car to the paint shop, I pulled the G/B and the prop shaft. It is a short w/b Ulster Rep with a 3 speed box and spider to front Hardy Spicer joint in place of the fabric coupling. At the rear, there is another Hardy Spicer U joint in front of the torque tube. The latter is the hex head type feeding a bolt up banjo differential. At the front, the U joints are quite flexible with no play. At the rear, one U joint is flexible, while the other has a stiff spot. All the U joints are fastened with circlip and there is only one grease fitting and that is on the sliding spline on the front of the prop shaft. Can I remove the stiff U joint and replace or lubricate it and is it a standard size available from a cherished supplier? Do these have needle bearings or plain? Just to reiterate, the chassis is 1930, but the front fabric coupling has been changed to a Hardy Spicer joint as has the rear instead of the cardan block type.
Erich in Seattle
RE: U joint woes - bob46320 - 03-07-2018
Hardy Spicer joints have needle bearings in them. Check the web for correct alignment of joints between the front and rear. Unusual for a stiff joint unless it has rusted up. I don't think you can replace just the needles and end caps.
RE: U joint woes - Dave Wortley - 03-07-2018
Erich, Hardy Spicer joint kits have a spider and 4 sets of needle bearings complete with enclosed outer races and circlips. At least they were a few years back when I bought mine.
Cheers,
Dave.
RE: U joint woes - Chris KC - 03-07-2018
Yup, years since I did mine but as I recall you simply remove the circlips, drift out the old and press in the new, not a big job. Replacement parts are likely to be 'sealed for life' so no grease nipple. As Bob says there is a 'correct' orientation between front and rear joints - move round on the splines if necessary.
RE: U joint woes - Jeff Taylor - 03-07-2018
Austin 7 Components stock the Hardy-Spicer U/J needle bearing assembly kits - part no. BP169 as do The Seven Workshop - part no. RA0180 and no doubt the other cherished suppliers. I've a feeling they'll be the same size / spec Hardy Spicer U/J's as those fitted to 1936 onwards Morris 8's - if so then they're the same as those fitted to 1950's / 60's Morris Minors / MG Midgets / Austin Healey Sprites. That being the case, you may be able to source some locally on your side of the pond.
Below are Morris Minor Hardy Spicer U/J's.
Screen Shot 2018-07-03 at 12.18.27.png (Size: 227.64 KB / Downloads: 408)
RE: U joint woes - Chris KC - 03-07-2018
Ooh, and they have nipples!
RE: U joint woes - Jeff Taylor - 04-07-2018
Hi Erich,
Instructions for fitting new Hardy Spicer U/J's on a mid to late 1930's Morris 8 prop shaft :-
Jeff
RE: U joint woes - Erich - 04-07-2018
Thank you Jeff. This is very helpful. I've order the bits and will be changing out soon.
Erich in Seattle
RE: U joint woes - "Slack Alice" Simon - 04-07-2018
Hi Erich
When this has been discussed before, someone said that there is a right way and a wrong way to put the circlips in.
Apparently, they have, or may have, one square edge and one chamfered edge and if inserted square edge up, don't seat properly.
One of mine didn't, I assumed I hadn't pushed the bearing in far enough, so hit it a bit harder.
I don't think it seated, I left it, to come back to it later, which I haven't yet done.
I am sure someone else will confirm if this is correct, or not.
Cheers
Simon
RE: U joint woes - Chris KC - 05-07-2018
I think that's correct Simon