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+--- Thread: Engine oil (/showthread.php?tid=340)
RE: Engine oil - Bruce Nicholls - 12-01-2020
Preference straight gear oil, however over the last 49 years it has had all sorts including the dreaded EP. In fact for most of the time in the past if I am honest it has probably had EP 140 or similar in it. However this does not seem to have done any harm as all still works quietly. My guess is that any oil is better than no oil.
RE: Engine oil - Ruairidh Dunford - 12-01-2020
EP140 is fine to use in your back axle provided it is Hypress.
Hypoid EP140 will attack non ferrous metals, eventually, and therefore is best to avoid.
If you are uncertain as to what type of EP140 you have, seek out D140 and use that.
RE: Engine oil - Bruce Nicholls - 12-01-2020
Has almost certainly had Hypoid in it Ruairidh. Think perhaps I will flush it out and start again as I haven't a clue what it has in currently as the car has been in store with only the odd use for the last 12 years.
RE: Engine oil - Chris KC - 12-01-2020
That sounds wise to me Bruce.
On the topic of 10W40, logically I should have thought it was ideal for most Sevens. Trouble is the results of an oil grade change are difficult to predict for most of us, thus info on what others are successfully using (and in what type of engine) is of considerable interest.
RE: Engine oil - RPW - 12-01-2020
Thank you for replies concerning diff oil. I also don't know what's in there at the moment (if anything!) I think I will use Castrol D140. Any advice about draining and flushing out?
RE: Engine oil - Parazine - 12-01-2020
Main point is not to overfill the axle. The level plug is a bit too high and if you fill it up to the mark, oil will tend to travel down the side tubes and reach the brakes, especially the Near Side. I find about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch below the level plug is about right and leads to dry brakes.
Oh, and at this time of year, it pays to take the drain plug out, when emptying the axle and let it drain overnight. Thick oil gets even thicker in the cold! No need to bother with flushing as long as the old oil all drains out.
RE: Engine oil - RPW - 12-01-2020
Parazine, Thanks for that advice
RE: Engine oil - Reckless Rat - 12-01-2020
And fill the axle with the chassis on axle stands and the axle hanging down on the springs (thanks Ruairidh)... it helps if you stand the axle oil in a tub of hot water and heat it through before you fill. I use a big plastic syringe. You may need to rotate the crown wheel so you can get past the internals.
RE: Engine oil - AustinWood - 12-01-2020
I have been using straight 30 oil in my car. I always think that thinner oils are preferable - they reach parts other oils don't.
Currently I'm using up the various odds and ends of 20-50 that I have accumulated. The oil pressure is noticeably higher and I doubt whether that is any advantage. When cold I suspect the flow through the jets is diminished, just when its needed most.
My local motor factors now sell a very well priced semi-synthetic 5W 30 which I shall move on to at the next change. It'll be interesting to see how it performs. I would expect much better flow when the engine is cold. When hot it ought to be similar to straight 30.
Recently I dismantled the engine to fix an oil leak from the rear main. There was negligible sludge from about 10,000 miles running.
RE: Engine oil - RPW - 12-01-2020
Thanks for more good advice Reckless Rat. What is the approximate oil capacity of the diff, (1933/34) given that one doesn't want to overfill it? I know I could look this up elsewhere... but if anyone feels like telling me..... Cheers