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+--- Thread: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? (/showthread.php?tid=2398)
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Jamie - 21-02-2019
(20-02-2019, 08:19 PM)Greig Smith Wrote: If anyone wants more details on how to make these conversions, let me know and I'll post pictures, alternately if you are very patient we can assemble & send you a set.
Aye
Greig
(19-02-2019, 10:55 PM)Jays Wrote: Out of interest is the Bowdenex system still available?
Greig,
I should be very interested if you are happy to post any details of your conversions. I am planning to use Bowden cables with TLS brakes and the Jack French (?) shortened cross shaft arrangement, so any pictures or drawings would be appreciated.
Regards,
Jamie.
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Greig Smith - 21-02-2019
Hi Jamie
I'll take some detailed pictures of the set up on the "65" and the race car for you
Aye
Greig
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Jamie - 21-02-2019
Thank you, Greig.
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Denis Sweeney - 27-02-2019
Further to my earlier posts and discussions with Reckless Rat I have attached here a document which shows the brake arrangement on my July 36 registered early Ruby.
Hopefully this time with the attachments...…...
Denis S
Hopefully this time with the attachments...…...
Denis S
Hopefully this time with the attachments...….
Denis S
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Ruairidh Dunford - 27-02-2019
Undo the handbrake adjustment completely - it will allow the cross shaft arms to come all the way back. After this you can bring up the fronts, then rears.
Be warned that mixing Austin and Girling in a coupled system does not always work perfectly.
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Denis Sweeney - 27-02-2019
All the system I have is what came with the vehicle when it was purchased 35 years ago, I have always assumed this was as original. I did mention in an earlier post that back when I first had the car I did have long dialogue with Jack French and he was of the opinion that it was probably how it left the factory but I have no way of verifying this.
Many thanks for the info, I will get back under her again and have another go, will let you know how I get on, if that is ok.
Thanks again
Denis S
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - "Slack Alice" Simon - 27-02-2019
I am not sure if it applies to your car or not, but on my slightly earlier car I have been helped a lot to understand the condition and effectiveness of the brakes by uncoupling them.
The handbrake works the fronts, the footbrake works the rears, you use both when you really need to stop.
The uncoupling is done by removing a cotter pin on the cross shaft, near the handbrake.
When I am happy that everything is working as it should and balanced side to side, I will put the cotter back in.
Having driven an uncoupled (1928) car for many years I am used to this arrangement, and have been known to grab fresh air from under the dashboard whilst trying to stop a modern car in a hurry!
Simon
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Denis Sweeney - 28-02-2019
Ruairidh, following your comments regarding undoing the handbrake adjustment....
I have again this morning dismantled the brake system on Ruby, uncoupled all cables, released the brake rod and released the handbrake adjuster as suggested.
However by releasing the handbrake adjuster, I gained no additional movement of cross tube.
I have annotated the attached picture taken this morning, apologies if this is all stating the obvious but..
The handbrake bracket/ratchet is attached and permanently rivetted at two locations (A) to the chassis and is therefore non adjustable.
The handbrake lever © pivots around the single bolt located between the two rivets.
With the handbrake in its fully off location, it rests hard against the fixed bracket/ratchet at (B)
And therefore at point (D) no further clockwise rotation can be made to the cross tube, this to me sets, the locations of the two outer levers the rear brakes and the central lever to the front brakes.
And so the central brake levers starting position is as the attachment and the outer levers are just towards the rear of the car beyond top dead centre on the cross tube.
So as the car is up on axle stands, I checked each wheel and when rotating them all by hand, there is audible rubbing noise and slight resistance on each wheel and so there is slight contact between each drum and brake shoe.
I have then replaced the front cable and adjusted the compensator, then I tightened the foot brake rod adjuster to allow about an inch of movement on the foot brake pedal and when full pressure is applied there is still plenty of room above the floor.
I have then adjusted the rear cables and finally the handbrake adjuster to allow five notches on the ratchet before it locks the wheels.
I then rechecked all wheels to see if any had got any tighter.
With the handbrake fully applied I cannot move any of the wheels, I'm no Charles Atlas (giving my age away) but they appear pretty solid.
I have not taken her off the axle stands yet and road tested her, just in case there are any adverse comments on the process I have used or any additional work I need to do.
Apologies to all for keeping this thread going but I feel a little lost on the brakes.
Best regards
Denis S
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Ruairidh Dunford - 28-02-2019
Can you post a picture of the cross tube arms at rest?
RE: Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be? - Denis Sweeney - 28-02-2019
Overall picture of the cross tube, I will follow this up with a picture of the outer lever to the back brakes
Cheers
Denis
Nearside outer lever, both taken yesterday with the cross tube in the same position as the photo taken today.
Cheers
Denis S