(06-10-2018, 07:53 PM)Ian Williams Wrote: Steve I can tell you that your Idea works, I have done the same myself in the past. I can also concur that silicone baking sheet gaskets are successful, as is Loctite 518 and paper. Unless your sump is horribly distorted most leaks appear to be oil coming through open bolt threads than past the gasket. Alan Raeburn used to produce an alloy sump that was chamfered at the front, these were/are excellent, slightly deeper than std, stiffening baffles and the chamfer makes engine removal a breeze, not sure if they are currently supplied by anyone in the UK.

(05-10-2018, 09:50 AM)Colin Wilks Wrote: Steve,
I'm hoping there will be a "Part 2" to this where you address the sealing of the block to the crankcase. I recall hearing about a modification to this joint involving long studs going all the way through the crankcase from block to sump. Does anyone have any details or experience of this mod?

(05-10-2018, 10:01 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: Chris Gould’s 10’000 mile engine had the long bolts as you describe Colin, design by Paul Bonewell I think.

I have used HT cap srews for this joint which work well.  The new silicone block to crankcase gaskets work extremely well here as well, in my experience.

(05-10-2018, 11:29 AM)Chris KC Wrote: And yet wasn't that what finished it Ruairidh? I last saw the film at least a decade ago but I believe they lashed the block down with a half-shaft and brake cables in the end

(08-10-2018, 12:29 PM)Stuart Giles Wrote:

(05-10-2018, 09:50 AM)Colin Wilks Wrote: Steve,
I'm hoping there will be a "Part 2" to this where you address the sealing of the block to the crankcase. I recall hearing about a modification to this joint involving long studs going all the way through the crankcase from block to sump. Does anyone have any details or experience of this mod?

Here's a photo of the long stud modification. You can still use the factory oil gauze with this. it just needs to have a fold put in it which sits alongside the piece of ali billet.

(05-10-2018, 10:01 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: Chris Gould’s 10’000 mile engine had the long bolts as you describe Colin, design by Paul Bonewell I think.

I have used HT cap srews for this joint which work well.  The new silicone block to crankcase gaskets work extremely well here as well, in my experience.

Presume you're spotfacing  seatings for the block bolts on the the inside of the crankcase when you do this Ruairidh? I made a "back spotface" tool for this job which works from the top of the crankcase.

(05-10-2018, 11:29 AM)Chris KC Wrote: And yet wasn't that what finished it Ruairidh? I last saw the film at least a decade ago but I believe they lashed the block down with a half-shaft and brake cables in the end

The block joint failure and subsequent (literal) lash up was on the first record attempt. Paul Bonewell did the long stud conversion for the second record attempt where the block joint was fine, but one of the metal gudgeon pin buttons broke away from the pin and eventually caused a piston failure.

(06-10-2018, 09:21 PM)AustinWood Wrote:

(06-10-2018, 07:53 PM)Ian Williams Wrote: Steve I can tell you that your Idea works, I have done the same myself in the past. I can also concur that silicone baking sheet gaskets are successful, as is Loctite 518 and paper. Unless your sump is horribly distorted most leaks appear to be oil coming through open bolt threads than past the gasket. Alan Raeburn used to produce an alloy sump that was chamfered at the front, these were/are excellent, slightly deeper than std, stiffening baffles and the chamfer makes engine removal a breeze, not sure if they are currently supplied by anyone in the UK.

I think the sump I have was this Alan Raeburn design. Very rigid and flanges for ease of removal.