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+--- Thread: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL (/showthread.php?tid=2267)
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - Hedd_Jones - 24-01-2019
Tony,
If your interested I can provide you with details of a west midlands based iron foundry. Excellent prices. One offs from no pattern no problem, and used to the Heritage market without the usual markup. Can also do non ferrous.
I don't see batches with patterns being a problem. The men involved are hungry for work. They've just been looking at cast iron parapets for a scheduled ancient monument for me.
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - Tony Betts - 24-01-2019
Hi hedd,
I'd love to know of other foundrys.
tony.7ca@aol.co.uk
The last foundry was charging £32 per casting, it's quite a heavy casting before machined. I felt that was a good price, for the amount of material used.
I don't want to stop doing the drums, it always feels good to sell things that really work.
But I do have to keep an eye on what people will realistically pay.
Thanks Tony.
(24-01-2019, 04:49 PM)Reckless Rat Wrote: Tony, I have a french friend who works for an international steel/iron founders with factories in India and as well as elsewhere. I will ask him how much for a new pattern and a batch of 100 castings. Do you sell them pre-machined or unfettled?
Hi reckers again I'd love to know the outcome of this.
I always sell them fully machined.
The only problem I have with overseas companies, Is quality. And usually there is NO returns policy. Which to me means why bother doing the job right, cos they ain't coming back.
I had a simular thing 5 years ago, with cranks. £200 each from India. But if there's a problem with them, you can't return them. A lot of money straight in the bin.
So I never took them up.
Tony.
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - Chris KC - 24-01-2019
Tony, I could put you in touch with 2 or 3 competent machining companies in Spain.
No personal experience but they do occasional prototype jobs for a modern high quality brake manufacturer & should be up to the job. No idea about pricing, you'd have to ask them. If interested pm me.
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - Peter Naulls - 25-01-2019
Tony,
Sounds as though you have a few leads to follow up. If you are still stuck for a pattern let me know and I'll ask my machinist if he's interested.
Very frustrating about the lost pattern - I had the same think happen some years ago so now I make certain I get patterns returned as early as possible.
Sorry Paul that your thread has gone off on a bit of a tangent!
Peter.
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - JonE - 01-03-2019
(21-01-2019, 09:10 PM)Chris KC Wrote: Ideally set it up so all the various levers are operating at right angles when just about to apply, for best mechanical advantage.
Just looking at one of my back levers (uncoupled), I can see that they should be near 90 degrees but are currently pulled further forward and will be even less efficient when full on.
Can I ask what the "set up" options are. i.e. is the only way I can get this back by shimming or introducing thicker linings, or does the lever on the back plate have adjustment somehow? I imagine not as its part of the cam.
I've looked in the Austin handbook and searched on the web but haven't come across anything easily accessible...
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - Bob Culver - 01-03-2019
The pre Girling system is very basic and angle increases with wear. Skimmed drums do not assist. Must be no risk of cams going too far and wedging on. Cams are individual. The direction of the cotter influences angle. Otherwise as you assume.
If you can establish or figure where the lever lies in the fully off position free of the cable, will indicate if assembled correct with correct cam.
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - Timothy P - 01-03-2019
Jon, do you mean they are pointing forwards with brakes off or on?
With the cables slack so that the shoes are flat on their cams, are both of the levers pointing down and backwards?
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - Hedd_Jones - 01-03-2019
Ive just finally read this thread, mainly as ive noticed a few things over the last week having had all three of my roadworthy cars out.
Of the 3 cars here, the chummy has the best foot brakes. 1inch shoes with new linings. original pressed drums. uncoupled, so only rear retardation. It will easily lock the wheels on dry tarmac. I must mention that it is fitted with a custom solid (not tubular) cross shaft, and bearings off a coupled car that are much more rigid. At present the handbrake is rubbish, but I hope a week of it being parked with the handbrake hard on will provide the requisite stretch in the brand new cable allowing me to adjust it up a bit harder which is basically the problem. the handle goes to the stop, yet when off still binds a little.
my 1930 saloon with mk1 coupled brakes, a continuous cross shaft with the pedal acting on the drivers side, not the centre as the later ones.
Ive always suffered with the car pulling to on side, so set it up so that if I stand on my brakes it pulls square, rather than pulling square under light application and to the opposite side of the road on heavy application (this is a result of cross shaft flex). Having got it back on the road after 6 months or so in the garage, the brakes are nowhere near as good as the chummy, despite all 4 working, but then it is a bloody heavy car in comparison. The linings are now 15 years old, on 1 1/4 shoes and original drums. It will, with some heavy application lock the rears.
The 34 box saloon (which has nominally been on the road all the time) I have concluded has issues. Light braking is excellent, and even (it has the later external fixed shaft to take the pedal force to the centre of the shaft) but even trying to rip the steering wheel off the column will not lock any wheels. so you brake, slow down nicely, but feels like you cant make it stop, basically like driving my traction engine. I have to alter this asap I think. It has original rear brakes - so 1 1/4 shoes and original drums, with old (20years plus) linings. But a semi girling front axle with the cast drums. All the levers point the right way so I need to have a look see. They need improvement I think, particularly as this is the car the wife drives.
I did have a special built on a 37 chassis. Fibreglass body etc. It has semi girlings (cables) all round. Oddly the rear levers pointed upwards (but back). The brakes were that good, I nearly spat my father out of the passenger seat when he asked me to demonstrate them.
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - JonE - 01-03-2019
Bob and Timothy
One is pictured here... the other one is vertically down (both at rest when cables attached) They will of course point further forwards with brakes on.
Not sure about how the cotter pin direction can influence yet. Will look up Woodrow or Green Book now home if its well explained in either of those(?)
So hub has to come off, whatever!? I'll get my new pads sorted... that should help...
RE: BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL - AustinWood - 01-03-2019
That doesn't look good.
Perhaps the cams are on the wrong side? Swapping them from side to side might well bring the levers to the correct angle.