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+--- Thread: Ulster Rep Rebuild - Gearbox release bearing pressing on clutch arms (/showthread.php?tid=9797)
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RE: Ulster Rep Rebuild - Gearbox release bearing pressing on clutch arms - Steve Jones - 08-01-2025
Using a four speed release bearing on a three speed gearbox is a common modification. As has been fitted, four speed levers are more suitable for the later bearing than the three speed levers. However, when doing this modification clearances change and as a result, some fettling is required. To decide what's required, always fit the engine and gearbox together on the bench so you can see if sufficient clearance between the release bearing carrier and the levers exits and, if not (usually the case), you can do the required adjustment there and then rather than finding out you have an issue after you've fitted the engine and box into the car. I follow the route that Terry Griffin recommends and it's always worked perfectly. However, even then, sometimes a set of washers is also required as the various posts above detail. Each combination of engine, release bearing/carrier and gearbox seems to be slightly different. Machining some thickness off the rear of the bearing carrier may achieve more clearance (at the possible risk of removing some strength from the carrier which takes a significant load) but why would you when much simpler options are available and are recommended by the many that have successfully fitted a four speed release bearing?
Steve
RE: Ulster Rep Rebuild - Gearbox release bearing pressing on clutch arms - Howard Wright - 08-01-2025
Hi Erich
Did you grind back the stop on the offside of the gearbox face plate? There is a semi circular protrusion on the original face plate that prevents the clutch levers from moving back. This stop needs to be removed if using the four speed release bearing.
Hope this helps?
Howard
RE: Ulster Rep Rebuild - Gearbox release bearing pressing on clutch arms - Erich - 08-01-2025
Hi Howard, I'm going to check that. I'm thinking that since when Chris built the engine, he didn't change to the T toggles, they were already there. And on the G/B, the onjly thing I've done is to toss the old bearing, so I'm narrowing it down to the bearing not seating all the way as you see in my first photo. Or, possibly a thicker bearing. Also, I had to use a brass drift to get the bearing down all the way, so perhaps, even though it is marked BJ 41, the clearances are different. And I think the bearing should sit further back on the carrier. If I could move it another 3/32 or so, that would solve the issue.
Best,
Erich