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+--- Thread: Sump studs size and thread (/showthread.php?tid=7980)
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Parazine - 30-08-2022
+1 on Helicoils. Available at reasonable cost these days from ReCoil:
Recoil® | Wire Thread Inserts & Thread Repair Kits (recoilshop.net)
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Howard Wright - 30-08-2022
Hi
+1 from me.
Make sure you seal the helicoil in with Loctite as well as the sump bolt. A few of the stud holes are not blind and oil finds its way down the threads.
Cheers
Howard
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Austin in the Shed - 30-08-2022
My advice is if you have the engine out and working on the sump is if the first couple of threads are pulled,or the bolt is a bit loose in the thread when checking is just fit a thread insert. It's much easier than trying to do it in situ.
The worst situation is when someone has previously tried to drill out a broken bolt and the hole has run and or been bodged.
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Ruairidh Dunford - 30-08-2022
I use large quantities of stepped studs and helicoils, every year.
Both work equally well, if fitted correctly, in my experience.
RE: Sump studs size and thread - dickie65 - 30-08-2022
My experience of helicoils for the sump is you need to use a Helicoil plug tap to stop the inserts being threaded into a tapered thread as left by the normal taper tap. This is due to the holes in the crankcase being quite shallow.
A plug tap or bottom tap can be made by getting another tapered Helicoil tap and shortening it without overheating it.
I am sure others have views on this.
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Austin in the Shed - 30-08-2022
You can use an m8 plug tap.
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Steve Jones - 30-08-2022
Firstly, Helicoils used correctly every time. I've used them for years in all sorts of applications and they do exactly what they designed to do. Re-Coil kits are not expensive and you only, really, need five sizes at most to treat most things on a Seven. However, after that (and I'm sure I might get the wrath of some) but I don't use the traditional sump set screws any more. 1/4" BSW double ended studs, Loctited into the crankcase (with Helicoils if needed), steel washers and a 1/4" BSW Nyloc nuts are now my method of choice. Coupled with a silicone sump gasket, leaks from the sump area are a now thing of the past and the sump is easily removable (although why you'd want to is a subject for another thread
) and re-fitted. Steve
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Charles P - 31-08-2022
(30-08-2022, 07:29 PM)Steve Jones Wrote: Coupled with a silicone sump gasket, leaks from the sump area are a now thing of the past and the sump is easily removable (although why you'd want to is a subject for another thread
Steve
I do the same Steve, but my one suggested modification is that with an alloy sump it’s best to shave 1/8th off both front flange corners. If you don’t then removing the sump with the engine in the car may become difficult, as I found when I needed to do this in the Wiscombe paddock between first and second practice
Charles
RE: Sump studs size and thread - Alan - 31-08-2022
Ah, youth and enthusiasm, I’d have gone home.
RE: Sump studs size and thread - John Mason - 31-08-2022
I have decided to go along the route of oversized bolts as there are only two threads too repair and I intend to do the job with the engine in the car. I will be using a silicone gasket. As to youthful enthusiasm that’s how the threads were stripped in the first place. My son is to strong for a light job.
John Mason.