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Austinsevenfriends
Crank end float - Printable Version

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RE: Crank end float - "Slack Alice" Simon - 03-04-2019

If you can check that the bearings are fitted correctly then you can leave it alone and fit a spacer ring betwwen the frontmost bearing outer and the front plate.

The spacer sould be thick enough to project just a little forward of the crankcase, so the outer rings are clamped by the front plate, via the spacer and the outer rings, to the rear plate.

The front bearings should be angular contact bearings which have outer rings thicker on one side than the other, fitted so the thicker sides meet together between the two bearings.

Not always easy to tell thick from thin, some bearings have "Thrust" marked on the thicker side.

So if you take the front plate off and can see "Thrust" you know they are wrong, and have to come out.

If you cannot see "Thrust" on the front bearing you can do the same at the rear, probably.

If you cannot see "Thrust" on either bearing, then you could take a chance they are the right kind bearings, fit the spacer, and off you go.

If you decide to take the bearings out and haven't removed front bearings before, take advice before you do.

Siimon


RE: Crank end float - Bob Culver - 03-04-2019

Just how critical the way around an unmatched ac pair is fitted is debatable.
Either the case has been machined wrong or narrow ac races have been fitted without spacers where wide should have been used. The crankcase number would be of interest
If been loose in the case should fall out.
The usual warning is to avoid breaking the lip, but this has already ben done and is now strong steel. Do not attempt to remove..


RE: Crank end float - Tony Press - 03-04-2019

01-04-2019, 08:52 AM (This post was last modified: 01-04-2019, 08:57 AM by Tony Press.)

Being a Phoenix it is unlikely to have the ball and roller bearing at the front , so check the two angular contact ball bearings for correct assembly back to back or damage/wear. Also check if the angular contact bearings are the narrow outer ring type in a deep front housing. 

Also if you cannot recognize an angular contact bearing you should trust any work to an experienced Austin 7 mechanic.


RE: Crank end float - brufsup - 03-04-2019

Thank you to everyone who has given helpful advice so far. It's very much appreciated. The crankcase number is 6691 stamped just above the sump.


RE: Crank end float - Bob Culver - 03-04-2019

That is a mighty early number. Sure a digit or two not missing? Anyway seems the longest housing so combination errors possible


RE: Crank end float - Chris KC - 04-04-2019

If an early engine all bets are off - stop and take advice.


RE: Crank end float - Charles P - 04-04-2019

A number stamped on the front, above the sump probably isn't an engine number

Charles


RE: Crank end float - brufsup - 04-04-2019

It's not an early crankcase. Sorry I gave you the wrong number. I'll take of the small front timing gear in a minute and the front bearing outer retaining plate. If the outer bearings have been spinning in the case it might have worn the case, which would explain the rumbling noise. I hope it isn't. If it is, hopefully if I clean it thoroughly I can loctite the bearings in place or a slight film of JB Weld, then fit the spacer rings to take up the end float. I'll post on here soon, when I've removed the small gear etc.


RE: Crank end float - David Stepney - 04-04-2019

Loctite 641 bearing fit is the stuff to use if you want to get the bearings out again at some future point.


RE: Crank end float - brufsup - 04-04-2019

Got the end plate off. Bearing outer is clearly loose in the crankcase. Can't feel any up and down play, so hopefully loctiting the bearings & fit a spacer will sort it out. There is no "Thrust " wording visible and it looks like the bearing is fitted the right way ( the outer one at least ). Now I have to see if I have any of the shims / spacers to take up the end float. It's unlikely I have anything that size. Are they available ?