I am sure that this subject must have been aired on this forum a number of times, but my “searching” has failed to find any.
I am currently at the start of building a spare 2 bearing engine for Ruby, I have a number of spare items like crankcase, blocks, heads, a new crankshaft and timing gears and a lot more, so it seems silly not to….!!!
I have what appears to be a sound block which is complete with everything, just as it had been removed from its original car many years ago, just covered in oil.
All the studs appear to be pitted and the threads all look to be in a poor state. And so I want to remove all the studs and replace them along with the manifold studs and water jacket studs.
When my original engine for Ruby was rebuilt, the work was carried out by my my neighbour and he replaced all the studs, but I never knew how he managed to remove them.
Currently I have cleaned most of the oil off the block and valve gear and have regularly been dosing the studs with penetrating oil. 
Looking on line there are a number of videos showing various methods including welding large outside diameter washers to the studs and then a large nut onto the studs and washer close to the block face, then with a larger spanner turning the studs out.
Has anyone tried this method or is there a better way??
Cheers

Hi. I think my engine  is running hotter than normal  ,95 -99dg c messured at top radiator tank with infrared thermometer
inlet to engine 75 gr.c. The radiator core are from 2011 , not new but  only filled with blue antifreeze and demineralized water , I don´t know the what the type is called .It look like zig zag 
I know that from new (1929) chummy`s was fitted with honeycomb core
Does anybody know if honeycomb are letting more air through. Temp above is with 26 dg c  .
Thanks in adwance    Mogens

Parked at work the other day, I noticed that there was a slight drip from below the radiator. I've been investigating this evening and realised it's coming through the drain tap (not where it seals to the rad - it's coming through the tap itself.
I tried tightening it just in case, but it wouldn't budge that way. So stupidly, I opened it slightly trying to ease it. Now it's dripping faster and won't budge either way. 

I've got a large container under it so it can slowly empty itself, but am I being stupid? Is it just seized or have I missed a trick?

Annoying it's dripping onto the bumper bracket, but that's a thick piece of metal and it's warm, so should be ok

Either way, I guess when it's drained, I need to put a new tap in and bleed the system. Not the end of the world

The car is a 1936 Ruby, if that helps

https://ibb.co/bX56H8F
https://ibb.co/fxXSbNK
https://ibb.co/g6vHmxQ

Just been watching catch up of this Channel 5 programme. They started with Woolworth, and this popped up. Not on the Register.

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i had a friend around yesterday who told me that his 'new' chummy steering box has the two mounting lugs broken off. Are replacements available?

August - traditionally the month for the British schools' summer holiday. Dad would book a week's holiday and a suitable venue chosen and booked - probably a caravan on a remote farm or a cheap bed-and-breakfast - usually in one of the far-flung corners of Britain: the Lake District, or perhaps the Norfolk coast, or maybe the New Forest, West Wales or the West Country. 

Wherever it was, it was likely to be a 6 to 8 hour drive - no Motorways to speed the traveller along, and no MacDonalds or Burger King to break the journey. Little Chef opened it's first diner in 1958 but the chances are that wasn't on your route. If you travelled through a sizeable town there might be a Wimpy Bar, but otherwise it was self-catering! So it was down to Mum to make the sandwiches (carefully wrapped in tinfoil - no plastic bags), supplemented by slices of Victoria sponge cake and the ubiquitous Thermos flask of tea or coffee.

A typical scene from the late 1950s or perhaps the early 1960s; both Austins look to be in fine condition, but sadly neither seem to have made it to the twenty-first century. Not surprising for the Big Seven, as even in the late 1960s when the Austin Seven movement was becoming well-established the Big Seven was not popular - some events even proclaiming 'no specials or Big Sevens' - but more surprising that the RP hasn't survived.

   

Hi!

I've just bought a 1936 Ruby and I'm looking forward to getting involved in the forum! This is my first Austin 7.

It seems pretty good so far, definitely usable and even quite nice. I certainly won't be restoring it, but I plan to repair the minor faults it has. They should all be pretty simple when I really look into it. I'm not asking for answers here, but if anyone has any particular thoughts, I welcome ideas from those with more experience of these cars.

They include:

• Carb adjustment. The idle setting needs constant fiddling to keep it running when you come to a stop or to get it to actually move without bogging and stalling. If the plunger is pushed all the way in, it will sometimes idle but it'll start to stall as soon as it's under load.
  
• Battery drain. I left the battery plugged in overnight and it was completely flat the next morning. So far, I'm just disconnecting it when I leave it. 
  
• Small coolant leak. Maybe from the bottom of the radiator by the hose there. Nothing major
  
• Oil drips. Seems to drip off the sump plug mostly, but I think it's just coming from all around the sump
  
• Wiper - motor seems to run fine, but only moves the arm about half an inch. Also the wiper is parked hanging down the screen
  
• Fuel gauge is permanently on empty.
  
• Speedometer is very inaccurate - reading about a third higher than it should. When it shows 40, that's a true 30, for example.
  

Hi folks

I'm thinking about alternatives to the usual Longstone or Blockley tires. However, I can only find motorcycle tires in size 3.5x19 at Avon or Dunlop. 

Could I also fit motorcycle tires then?

I would love to hear your advice or opinions. Thank you very much in advance!

Cheers
Oliver

Hi, I've just started to rebuild my back axle on my 1934 RP box saloon and need some advise on adjusting and setting up the crown and pinion properly. I think I have managed to get it aligned but don't have the experience to know I have definitely got it right and I don't want to cause more problems at a later date when the car is running!

I have assembled it and run the drive with a socket on the end of a drill to turn the axle for getting an idea of the contact being made on the crown and pinion, I've  used engineers blue on a quarter of the the crown wheel. The results are in the photos attached (this is after several attempts and adjustments). I do have some doubt I have got it right as there were 2 shims in each side of the torque tube from on the original set up, but I have removed one set and it seems to seat better, but the advice I have read is to put all of them back as it was. 

Any help on if it looks right or advise on getting it better would be very much appreciated. 

Regards 

John  
  Complete set up..jpg (Size: 154.82 KB / Downloads: 268)
  Crown marking 1.jpg (Size: 107.26 KB / Downloads: 268)
  Crown marking.jpg (Size: 72.52 KB / Downloads: 267)
  Pinion markings 1.jpg (Size: 107.59 KB / Downloads: 267)
  Pinion markings.jpg (Size: 112.9 KB / Downloads: 267)

I have just read through Falcott's thread on this subject and found myself increasingly embarassed by my lack of understanding . I didn't used to be this dumb but I can only plead advancing years.

My RN (October 1932) that thinks it is an RP was modified back in the mists of time to have a Semi-Girling front axle complete with the revised the cross-shaft, but it has a standard 1932 rear brakes. I am not sure how I should ensure some compatibilty but it has seemed to work OK in the 7 Years I have had the car.

My question relates to the discussion in Falcott's thread about the angle of the lever on the front. A couple of people have commented that the levers are set to far back on my car and that this reduces the effectiveness when braking. I can see that that makes some sense?!!?

Please can someone view the attached pic of the offside S-G front brake and give me advice. The hand-brake is fully applied. I am happy to replace the cable etc. with adjustable type and will be fully servicing the system.

Any advice welcome   -  I hope everybody is well and making use of the good weather.

Cheers

Dave